Thursday, September 21, 2006

On the road...

As you can see by all of my pictures, I've been getting around alot here in El Salvador!!! Alot of it has to do with taking care of myself in the city. I'm not crazy about life in San Salvador, so I try and take every opportunity I can get to get out of the city! There is so much to see here in El Salvador, and San Salvador is NOT the place to do it (many Volunteers call it "little America"...sad, but true...)

My work has also been keeping me extremely busy. Angela and I started doing psychosocial workshops in a community outside of San Salvador, and so far its going extremely well. People are really interested, and its been a fun experience as well. Since Angela is a Social Worker, with lots of group therapy experience, its been a great learning opportunity for me as well. She's full of positive energy and good ideas, and I couldn't have hoped for a better work partner! We've also been going out to another community with one of our Salvadoran counterparts to help with disaster preparedness workshops. Its another eye opening experience in that many communities have worked with NGOs before, and have worked on emergency action plans...you'd think that the organizations would get together and work together. THIS is one of the most frustrating experiences with development--trying to get organizations to share information and work together. Not that REDES, my organization isn't trying to do it, but there just seems to be so much overlap in what people do...yet the people who need the help are still staying in the same situation. It is infurating at times, but I'd be worried if it didn't make me angry. The best that I can do, for now, is bring this to the table and try to communicate MYSELF as much as I can...

So, while my work is going extremely well, its also drawing to a close. I officially end my work with REDES on October 20...But that doesn't mean that I'm going to end my relationship with REDES. I will be here in El Salvador at least for another year working with Peace Corps (YEAH!) My heart is here, for now, and I am anxious to learn more about El Salvador, the people, the land, the history, and most importantly about life itself.

Guazapa

My horse, princessa, and Michelle with our guide, Luis.

Last weekend another Crisis Corps Volunteer and I, Michelle, went on a tour of Mount/Volcano Guazapa. It is just outside of Suchitoto where I used to live, and I've been meaning to take the tour for months now. This area saw much destruction during the war--burned houses, craters where bombs were dropped can still be seen, foxholes, and trenches. The tour is given by an ex-combatant--extremely interesting, but also beautiful and peaceful at the same time. In addition to showing us the historical war-related sites, our guide also showed us waterfalls, plants that centuries ago were used to make indigo, and he even dug up some ginger root for me to take home. This country is so full of opportunities to discover history and beauty, and I feel good about contributing to the "eco-tourism" that is trying to progress here in El Salvador. (Can anyone tell I want visitors?!)


These pictures were part of what I saw on the tour. I believe that the first is a former school that was used as a camp during the war. The other is a small cemetary erected for a few men that died in combat. ("In Remembrance of the heroes fallen in combat")

Crisis Corps Beach Getaway

A few weekends ago my program manager and fellow Crisis Corps Volunteers (we're about 10 total in El Salvador now) went to La Libertad beach outside of San Salvador (about an hour and a half by bus). You'd think I'd get to the coast more often, but there is so much to do and so much to see here in El Salvador, spending time at the beach is not high on the priority list...although it is very beautiful and relaxing!! The first picture is of playa El Tunco where we hung out, and the second picture is Lavinia (my Program Manager) and I at the hostal we stayed at with the cutest little puppies!

Perquin

The town of Perquin is located in the eastern part of El Salvador near the Honduran border. It was the FMLN headquarters during the war...it is also extremely beautiful!

Picture1: Me on our hike from Perquin to El Mozote.

Picture 2: Angela with some of the kids we walked home from school in El Mozote.

Picture 3: Angela and I on top of Mount Perquin. On clear days you can see Honduras, the town of Perquin, and even all the way to San Salvador. Helicopter landing and trenches are also here as reminders that Perquin was the FMLN headquarters.

Picture 4: Outside of the war museum in Perquin. Radio Venceremos was the radio operated by the FMLN during the war.

Picture 5: Mural found in Perquin with pictures of Che Guevera, Romero, Schafik, and Farabundo Marti (historical Revolutionary figure after who the FMLN is named).

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

El Mozote

Angela and I went to El Mozote a few weeks ago. December 11, 1981 over 900 people were massacred here and in the surrounding areas. Why did this happen? Its a historical example of terrorism to silence the opposition and inspire fear (the FMLN headquarters was around this area). But still, why did this happen?

Picture 1: El Mozote memorial including the names of family members killed

Picture 2: "They have not died, they are with us, with you, and all of humanity"

Picture 3: "In this place the remains of 132 persons were found in 1992--121 minors less than 12 years old. All of them have been interred in this monument. El Mozote never again!"

Picture 4: A new memorial/mural through the work of (I believe) a British nun. The memorial is for the 132 children that were found in 1992.

Picture 5: Mural on the side of the church in El Mozote, also completed through the work of a British nun.




Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Lago de Ilopango

After spending more than 1 week in a depressive San Salvador style funk (I know, poor me, I have free wireless internet access, I live in a nice safe 'hood, and the only thing I can't buy is OB tampons) I found my spirit again in El Salvador.

I visited one of my fellow Crisis Corps Volunteers near the Lago de Ilopango. Can I describe it to you without pictures? Can I describe it to you with pictures? I've talked several times with my friend there, seen pictures, seen his presentations about the reality of life there, but I didn't TRULY understand it until I saw it. But still, with or without pictures, with or without the ability to experience the reality, I must share...Voice and the freedom to share is one of the few things we Americans still have (for now...)

So, last year when Hurricane Stan hit, it turned into a Tropical Storm in El Salvador. Because of the heavy rains, there was flooding in many areas of El Salvador...including Lago de Ilopango. Part of the problem is that there has been soil erosion in El Salvador. El Salvador is a country that is full of massive hills/volcanoes that have been stripped of trees that could potentially prevent flooding problems. So, when these massive rains came through last year (and its the rainy season now, so its happening again) the soil/mud/sand washes down from the hills and deposits either in or near the lago (lake) de Ilopango. The problem is that there are many homes that are near there. Its impossible to imagine--with or without a picture--but there are homes built in the "river" where the rainfall drains into the lake, and there are homes built directly next to the lake. So what does this mean? This means that there are sand deposits halfway up to the doorways in many houses near the lake which means you have to literally step down more than a foot to enter the home. The houses built in the "river" flood when it rains heavily. And what does this mean for the lake? The lake is rising, its flooding into homes near the lake. What does this mean for garbage? It means that the garbage "dump" floods out into the communities when there is heavy rain. So what does this mean for health problems like dengue or malaria? It means that there is a constant risk of dengue/malaria in the area because there is constantly standing water that creates a breeding ground for mosquitoes. So why don't the people just move? Well, they're poor, and income is generated through fishing a (polluted) lake or the minimal tourism that comes through there. And why would someone move when the threat/pressure to join a gang is so high? (Assumption on my part, but gang violence is a reality here in El Salvador...)

So, what am I doing? I'm sharing this with a small community of people that care, and TRYING to support my Crisis Corps friend in his endeavors in this one community. My heart breaks, but it reinforces the reason that I am here in El Salvador--I can't ignore the reality of poverty that has been created by the world and I need to keep learning about the reality from intelligent caring people...and more importantly from the Salvadorans themselves.

Well, why do I feel better? Because I know that I have the power to share this reality with others...even though we are powerless in this one community, we are NOT powerless politically in our country and we CAN make choices in the things we do, things we buy, and choices we make in everyday life. I also feel better because I have a beautiful life...I have friends, loving family, my health, education, potential, options...Most importanlty I have a conscience...A conscience that is always in check and always evolving. I wish I could do more, but for now estoy siempre luchando por un mundo mejor!

Friday, August 04, 2006

Romero

Site of Romero's assassination March 24, 1980 in the chapel of the Hospital of Divine Providence San Salvador, El Salvador
"En Este Altar Monsenor Oscar A Romero Ofrendo Su Vida A Dios Por Su Pueblo" "At this Altar Monsenor Oscar A Romero Offered His Life to God for His People"
Memorial for those killed and disappeared during the war in San Salvador Parque de Cuscatlan(there is a large blank area for those that have not been named/recorded)
Mural in Parque de Cuscatlan

Costa Rica

I visited Costa Rica last week for my birthday to see Sara. Here are some of the highlights:


1) Sara and I on the beach

2) We hiked for 3 hours--its good to be non- smokers!

3) Monkeys on the roof of our hotel

4) Yes, I am a Peace Corps Volunteer, but I woke up in heaven on my birthday (and so did Georgette!) thanks to Sara





Wednesday, August 02, 2006

Top 5

Okay, this has nothing to do with El Salvador, but (thank God!) since I don't have television, I'm able to read alot more--especially on long bus rides! Here is my top 5 recommended books that I've read since I've been here:

1) The Pilgrimage by Paulo Coelho (Paulo Coelhos journey on the Road to Santiago--very inspiring!)

2) The Red Tent by Anita Diamant (Biblical story of Dinah--Jacob and Leah's daughter. Extremely empowering for women.)

3)The Secret Life of Bees by Sue Monk Kidd (Another good book for women's empowerment.)

4) Night of the Radishes by Sandra Benitez (Conjures up fond memories of Mexico, as it is partially set in Oaxaca, Mexico)

5) Tear this Heart Out by Angeles Mastretta (More women empowerment! Fictional story set in Mexico post-revolution period)

(I'm also reading Jared Diamond's book "Collapse"--requires more brain power than the others, but well worth it! Essentially taking lessons learned from societies that have failed historically, and applying that to current environmental/societal concerns and realities.)

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Friday, July 14, 2006

Pictures of some of the YES students in El Pital, Chalatenango

Planting grass
Two students teaching a 5th grade class about stereotypes/gender roles
The kids were a big hit with the kids!

Making pupusas with the women

Hope

The wonderful thing about life--when so many things seem to be going poorly in the world, something happens to inspire and bring hope.

I spent Monday and Tuesday with an AMAZING group of teenagers from Houston, Texas. A Peace Corps Volunteer here in El Salvador worked with a teacher at an alternative school in the States to arrange a service learning trip to her village in El Salvador. The students that came down here were Hispanic (several of their parents were born in El Salvador), so all of them spoke Spanish and didn't seem quite as wide eyed as so many of us gringos! It was neat to see the cultural exchange between the kids and the people in the village here. It was also beautiful to see a REAL, human relationship between students and teachers, as well. The teachers shared with me that time is spent with both students and families--isn't that a novel idea?!

The most inspiring part for me, though, was seeing how hard these kids worked, how respectful they were to people, and how much they really seemed to care...So many times we hear about how children in the US don't have values anymore, are "me centered"--all of you know the rhetoric that I'm talking about! And I've experienced it, too...I get frustrated with the lack of knowledge and caring of so many people in the world, but this group of students and teachers brought hope back into my heart. So much of my experience here in El Salvador has been just that--learning how to hope again. Many, many people here (both Salvadoran and American) have given me the beautiful gift of hope.

While the students are here for 2 weeks they are building latrines, teaching English classes, life skills classes, and planting grass in an attempt to prevent further soil erosion.

If you want to find out more about the school, their website is:
http://www.yesprep.org

Friday, July 07, 2006

Violence

I've debated writing about the level of violence here in El Salvador so as not to alarm others in regard to my safety and also the ability to travel here, but it just seems too important to not write about...This week has just been filled with reminders of just how peligroso El Salvador (and the world for that matter) is.

I learned that an elderly couple in the town that I just moved from was killed over the weekend...the same day that I moved from there. I don't know what the real story is, and I hesitate to write about it as any information that I rely upon--be it newspapers, TV, Salvadorans, or other Volunteers--will be subjective and I have to consider it gossip. Where is the truth? This week, here in San Salvador, there was a demonstration at the University, supposedly because the bus prices had gone up, and during the demonstration 2 police officers were killed. There are so many implications for this that I don't even think that I can write about it all. Is the government going to pass laws to limit the people's ability to demonstrate? Are demonstrations here going to become more violent rather than peaceful?

So, these are just two examples of the violence that is present here. I could give several more examples, but I will refrain. A friend of mine here told me that the people here live in fear...Its extremely disturbing to hear that, and while I need to be careful, I can't live my life in fear.

As I said at the beginning of this, I'm not writing about this to alarm or deter others from seeing the beauty of El Salvador. Its just that with all the beauty of the land, and the goodness of so very many people here, there is the harsh reality as well that can't be forgotten. I still love this country, but like any loving relationship its not easy when reality sets in...

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Public Health Music Video

Sarah Maclachlan donated the budget for the music video to 11 charities.
Sarah McLachlan :Afterglow :'World on Fire'
http://us.video.aol.com/video.index.adp?mode=2&pmmsid=1202713

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Niños

More graffiti: Bush and Saca (Salvadoran President) are immigrants. We aren´t illegal This is such a sweet picture...Franklin, my compañero, working with one of the children
Angela and Leonel
This is my new boyfriend, Alejandro!

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

A few more pictures...

My compañeros: Dimas, me, Angela (my new compañera in Cuerpo de Paz), Pedro, Roberto, Mario, Franklin, and one of the kids from the community


Stacy (a friend of Angela's), me, Roberto, and Angela by the Rio de Lempa (flood prone area)











One of our workshops with the kids was cancelled...so we went to the beach! We ate at "my restaurant"--Mariscos Mary

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Fun

This was the path we took to get to the water falls on SundaySome of the artwork that the kids have completed in the workshops

I went to a waterfall near my house on Sunday. It was so nice to swim and be cool for a moment! I also finally made it to see the coast on Saturday. It was great to at least put my feet in the salt water! Its hard to believe that I've been here for 2 months and its the first time that I've been to the ocean! My manager is planning an outing to the beach soon, and I'm really looking forward to it. I am still enjoying my work, but I'm just exhausted all of the time!

Friday, June 09, 2006

A few pictures





Pictures from top to bottom:
1) Memorial site where 6 Jesuits were assassinated on the campus of the University of Central America during the war. Extremely moving, but its hard to comprehend the level of violence during war...anywhere...
2) A few drawings in the Chapel at the University
3) A quote from Romero: "If they kill me, I will be brought back to life in the Salvadoran people" Does it give you chills, too?
4) Graffiti in the centro in San Salvador. "No imperialism" "24 years of struggle...Always until the victory" I actually like some of the graffiti in El Salvador
5) The national Cathedral where Romero is buried

Sunday, June 04, 2006

My guys


These are three of my coworkers at REDES--Mariona, Moises, and Mardo--taken in the REDES office in San Salvador. All 3 are great guys, and I feel blessed to be working with them!

Friday, June 02, 2006

Still good, but...







(Pictures above: The first one is one of my roommates, David, napping on the way home from work in the ambulance that we ride in. My other roommate's name is Angela--a fellow Marquette alumni...small world! The second picture is a flooded home in one of the communites that we work with named San Augustin. It flooded in October due to tropical storm Stan. Yes, that's right, October! The next picture is lago de Suchitlan in Suchitoto where I live. El Salvador truly is breathtaking...The last picture are 3 of the 4 artists who I am working with in the implementation of workshops. Roberto, Franklin, and Pedrito--3 of the coolest, passionate, real men that I've met!)


So, I´m still happy to be in El Salvador, but the reality is setting in. The organization that I am working with is undergoing major changes which makes for a tense atmosphere. I really love my coworkers, and it looks like I won't be working with them after June 30...a big disappointment. On the bright side, I'm enjoying what I'm doing right now, in the moment. I'm working with a group of artists/musicians who are part of a group called COOPARTE. All local Salvadorans...an extremely talented, intelligent, passionate group. The name of the music group is Yolocamba Ita...their music is spectacular...The kind of music that makes you feel and gives you chills. We're doing workshops with children in 3 communities.

I feel at times that I've been given a gift to be exposed to such good people. I'm learning so much. About El Salvador, the struggle of the people, corruption, inequity, politics, the reality of the NGO world...I'm also learning about myself, and how sometimes I just need to let things go and again remind myself that I can't save the world...but I can try, and surround myself with people who believe in the same ideals and together we can work together towards a better world.

Okay, I'll get off my soapbox now! I'm exhausted from heat, travel, and work with the kids so I'm having trouble really making sense of what I'm saying here. Un abrazo muy fuerte á todos!

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Water

Yesterday on our way back from one of the communities we were stopped for nearly an hour or so because there was a demonstration about water. One of the communities is not receiving water regularly, and this is their only way of getting ANDA (the government organization in charge of water) to act. I do know that these types of demonstrations are common, and access to clean water is a problem in all parts of the world, but I feel like so many people DON´T know this. I mean, as Americans, could you imagine having to stage a demonstration to stop traffic on a major highway in order to get WATER?! Its sick, its sad...

Another learning experience yesterday was why one of the communities that I am working in, Bajolempa, is flooded every year. Supposedly the government wants to create a tourist area near there since it is not far from the ocean, by the Lempa River, and the land is good. Anyway, the government hasn't built an access road to the ocean (why should they help the poor people?). Even worse, they have not replaced the dam that would protect the people from yearly flooding during the rainy season. Apparently, their tactic is to make the people desperate to sell their land so that it can be bought at a low price and then develop the land into hotels, golf courses, parks, etc. So very, very sad. And if you saw the poverty in the community...I haven't even been in the homes, but I've met the people. Unbelievable. Two other communities that I am working in have their distinct problems as well. One community has been in a shelter for nearly a year due to the volcanic eruption here in October. 30 families in an area smaller than some houses. So much of it seems to be about money and greed. Why is the world like this? And why don't more people care? And why can't I do more to help solve the problem? While it isn´t easy to witness all of this, I consider myself one of the luckiest people in the world because I am here in solidarity with these amazing people. And they have taken me in, and they tell me their stories, and they thank ME just for being there. I love them, I do...

Thursday, May 04, 2006

City Girl (or at least not Outdoor Girl!)

I had a nerve-wracking, scary night last night. There were all of these flying, huge beetles or cockroaches that kept coming into my house from outside—looks like I’m going to have to fashion some screen or something, huh? (Where is MacGyver when you need him? Oh, I know, in San Cristobal !). Then, a bat flew into my house (I have high ceilings), and I freaked out for a bit. Well, the beetles stopped bothering me after I turned on the outside light, and turned off the inside light, and I have no idea where the bat went—he wasn’t here in the morning. I’ll be happy when the other Volunteer that I’ll be living with moves in this week—I’m such a baby! I mean, I live in a town, I have electricity, water, flush toilet… but the night can be scary, especially when there are all of these foreign creatures flying about!

On another note, for those of you who don’t know, I’ll be receiving my MPH from Tulane this month (finally!) I’m taking my final exam online on Thursday, and then I’m done! I feel like the project that I’ll be working on here in El Salvador really could benefit from a public health perspective. It’s exciting to finally be able to apply some of what I learned at Tulane to a real life project. As I said before, though, whether it is successful or not is a completely different story. Essentially, the project involves working with a local musician here to plan and implement 8 workshops with kids (songs, stories, theater, puppets) who are living in poverty and have been affected by one of the natural disasters. I’ve been out to 2 of the communities already, and the kids are so cute! We were giving out shoes in one community, and this little boy (I think he had Down’s syndrome) gave me a big kiss on the cheek when I gave him his shoes—I nearly cried! But, its not just about making me feel good…I learned that from Peace Corps the first time. The problems here are serious. The level of poverty and inequity is much different than Uzbekistan, and the risk of natural disasters is a constant threat to so many people. El Salvador is a country prone to earthquakes, flooding, and volcanic eruption—it amazes me how “vulnerable” the country is; yet people survive! It’s so hard to grasp this, because I want solutions, but I know that there is no easy or quick solution. My part, and even the role of REDES (the organization I’m working with), is so small in the larger scheme of things, but I’m happy to be part of such a community-focused organization.

So, I’ve spent much of my time this weekend planning, reading, and trying to come up with a concrete evaluation plan for this program so that we can learn something from what we are doing. I don’t know if I’m on the right track, but who does? Is there really a “right” way to do things anyway? It seems to me that coming from a deep, true love for people and tempering it with realism, openness, and willingness to explore the ethics behind something is at least a good starting point in order to “do the right thing”.

April 29

April 29, 2006

Even though I’m really hot, and I felt pretty awful physically yesterday, I feel this sense of balance in my life and like I’m in the right place. I don’t feel the elated high that I felt at one point in my life while I was in Mexico, just a sense of peace and purpose. I think that’s what it is more than anything—I feel like I have a focus, and it’s a focus that I want to have. I’m excited and interested in what I’m doing and what I’m about to do. I don’t know if its going to be a success or not, but I know that I’m going to learn…a lot. It’s the right mix of support and independence. I hope that I’m not being too idealistic, but I’m trying to temper my optimism with realism. And the Salvadoran people, so far, have been really great—I wish that everyone could experience their patience and perspective…

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Tuesday April 25, 2006





I’m posting (or going to try and post!) a couple of pictures. The first is swearing in at the Peace Corps office in San Salvador. Lavinia is my program manager all the way on the left. She’s a former PCV in El Salvador, and is originally from Romania. She’s really great, supportive, and encourages our independence as Volunteers. Josh and John are the young guys in the pictures. Josh was a PCV in Nicaragua and John served in Ecuador. I won’t be working directly with them, though, since they are in different communities and work in agricultural programs. Mike Wise is the Country Director in the middle—really knowledgeable, supportive, down-to-earth kind of guy.

The next picture is my house. I’ll probably be spending most of my time outside since it’s so hot! I’m also posting a picture of me with 2 of my neighbor kids, Pepe and Sandra, from Mexico.

Haven’t been up to much the past couple of days, as my project won’t begin until next week or the following week. I’ll be working with a group of artists in 3 communities to do workshops with kids affected by the volcanic eruption and tropical storm Stan. We’ll be doing workshops with them to create stories, theater, and music—activities that I strongly believe are what psychosocial programs should look like. Hopefully I’ll be visiting one of the communities this week when the organization that I’m working with (REDES) goes out to deliver supplies.

I feel pretty good physically and emotionally (with the exception of the heat!) It’s hard to eat when it’s so hot, but when I do there is plenty of fruit around and pupuserias. Pupusas are a tortilla thing filled with beans and cheese, meat or eggs. I have a feeling I’ll be sick of them after 6 months, but for right now they’re filling and a treat!